BlackSeaRoamer
Wednesday, 24 July 2024
A return visit to Dnipro
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I had spent two months in Dnipro as an election observer in 2006. At that time, it had been called Dnipropetrovsk, in honour of the Ukrainia...
Monday, 15 July 2024
Kryvyi Rih, a city built on steel
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I had visited Kryvyi Rih several times in 2006, when I spent two months as an election observer in Dnipropetrovsk (renamed Dnipro in 2016), ...
Sunday, 7 July 2024
Mykolaiv, "Hero City"
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Travelling by marshrutka (minibus) from Odessa to Mykolaiv in June 2024 was a rather normal experience. Aside from a police checkpoint along...
Tuesday, 23 January 2024
The historic city of Chernihiv under Russian attack
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In mid-November 2023, following a few weeks in Kyiv, I travelled up for a weekend in Chernihiv, close to the borders with Belarus and Russia...
Sunday, 29 October 2023
The Bulgakov Museum, Kyiv
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The Bulgakov museum, on Andriivskyi Descent, in the beautiful heart of old Kyiv, is situated in the apartment where Mikhail Bulgakov was bro...
Friday, 22 September 2023
Historical memory in Lviv
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Lviv is a beautiful city in western Ukraine. In many ways it has a distinct spirit, reflecting its different historical heritage from the re...
Wednesday, 6 September 2023
A visit to Kharkiv
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On the long train journey from Warsaw to Kyiv, one of my travelling companions was a teenage girl from Kharkiv who had with her mother taken...
Friday, 25 August 2023
Museums and monuments in Warsaw
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As the Russian invasion of Ukraine had stopped all air travel to the country, my journeys to Kyiv in the autumn of 2022 and again in the sum...
Thursday, 10 August 2023
Kyiv under attack
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The day before I travelled by bus from Warsaw to Lviv in mid-November 2022, Russia launched a mass-missile attack on Ukraine. A friend in Lv...
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