Sunday 24 May 2009

Tirana in spring

I'm really impressed by Tirana. After the hard times it has been through it has emerged as an attractive, lively, pleasant city. Lots of green spaces, birds in the trees, chirping merrily, so different from the aggressive cawing of the crows in Prishtina. There are nice cafes, many of them with gardens. All in all, it seems like a relaxed, pleasant Mediterranean city. And for the moment, the weather is mostly just pleasantly warm and springlike. No doubt, as summer progresses, it will become horribly hot.

There are nice places to eat as well. As well as traditional Albanian food, there is a strong Italian influence, and lots of seafood. There is a downside; I have been suffering horribly from food poisoning the past few days. But overall it's really good to be here. One of the pleasantest places in the Balkans.

I am full of admiration for the multi-talented young man from the British embassy who plays guitar and piano for a really rather good rock band on Saturday evenings, and then plays the organ in the Catholic cathedral on Sunday mornings. Remarkable. He speaks Albanian as well.

Of course, there are negative aspects. The politics (the reason I'm here) are dirty. Respect for laws is as and when people find it convenient. That can be seen in the behaviour of state institutions, political parties, and driving habits. Law is a very low currency here, perhaps unsurprisingly given the country's past experience.

Sunday 10 May 2009

Wild Strawberry Rakija

I love wild strawberries. One of the most delicious fruits there is. And the pleasure is still greater for the joy of coming upon them during a ramble through the woods, rummaging through the undergrowth in search of the delectable little red berries. And then there are those intimate moments when a companion, having got lucky and stumbled on a rich seam, offers you some of her find - what a sacrifice, it must be love. And then there is the dear friend who showed me the secret little corners of the garden, behind the bushes, where a precious crop of the fruit could be found. Real trust there, that I would not succumb to the temptation to scoff the lot.

So, visiting Belgrade last weekend, how could I turn up the chance to try a Wild Strawberry Rakija (Eau de Vie)? Friends had taken me to a restaurant in the hills out of town (roasted lamb and veal, and lots of salad - I preferred the lamb, nice and succulent - the veal was a bit overdone for my taste). the waitress proposed the Rakija as an aperatif. I have tried a variety of Rakijas, most often plum (Sljivovica) and grape (Lozovaca), as well as Travarica (Lozovaca with herbs) and pear (Viljamovka), as well as mulberry (in Albania). But Wild Strawberries. That sounded interesting. And what was it like? It smelt and tasted just like wild strawberries. How odd! I never before tasted a spirit that tasted exactly like the fruit it is made from. Wild strawberries with an alcohol kick when it hits your throat. Very nice of course. But if I want to taste wild strawberries would I rather just eat wild strawberries or take it as Rakija? Not sure. But an entertaining experience.