Saturday 18 April 2009

Back in Skopje

Last weekend I was in Skopje again. Beautiful spring sunshine, sitting outside cafes and restaurants with friends, great. Skopje must be one of the most underrated cities in Europe. It's not one of the most beautiful cities, it's true. The rebuilding after the 1963 earthquake was typical of the era and of the grey communist regime that undertook it. But it's full of life. It just feels good to be there. I've always enjoyed myself in Skopje, ever since my first, brief, crazy visit in 1988. Some cities seem to have a spirit about them, an energy. Skopje has that.

There may be worse things than 60s communist greyness. Apparently, the latest government plan for poking the Greeks in the eye is to build a huge statue of Alexander the Great on the main square. Apart from the fact that baiting a more powerful and influential neighbour is daft, I fear it will be one more step in the determined effort to turn Skopje into the capital of kitsch. The ghastly Mother Teresa memorial house is one example (Mother Teresa was a native of Skopje).

Mother Theresa Memorial House, Skopje

What kind of architectural mishmash is that? Then there are the ridiculous little statues sprouting around the town centre. Skopje risks becoming a laughingstock. In one previous job, we had an office competition to see who could bring back the most kitsch souvenir from their holidays. I fear Skopje might become a kind of mecca for kitsch aficionados.

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