Trogir and the Propitious Moment

I first visited Trogir in 1990. My recollection of this beautiful old town, as one of the most charming in Dalmatia, was confirmed by this return visit. Since 1997 it has been a UNESCO World Heritage site, although I could not help wondering at the placing of the word ‘UNESCO’ in neon lights above the entrances to the old town. Perhaps someone had misunderstood the point of that honour. Still, wandering the narrow streets and alleys of Trogir is as great a pleasure as in any town in Dalmatia.

Portal of the Church of St Lawrence, Trogir

The jewel of the town is the church of St Lawrence, on the main square in the old town, and especially its intricately carved portal by the 13th century master Radovan. I was especially struck by the carved figures holding up the portal on their backs, some of whom clearly appear to be in Muslim attire, complete with turbans. Trogir had been sacked by Saracens in the 12th century, and it seemed interesting that Radovan should have wished to represent such figures in his creation.

Trogir was founded as a Greek colony in the 3rd century BC. Early in the 20th century a relief of Kairos, the Greek god of the propitious moment, from the 3rd century BC, was discovered in the abandoned house of a local family. It depicts the god as a young man whose forelock must be grasped in order to catch the fleeting moment, or else it will fly away, never to be caught again. The poet Posidippos described how Kairos, in answer to a question about why the artist had created him, replied that he was a moral, to remind people. The relief and the story attached to it struck a chord with me, as it might with anyone who has ever missed an opportunity, and as a reminder to grasp opportunities that come our way.

Kairos, Trogir

There is another nice story attached to the Trogir Kairos. Before its significance was realised, the stone had apparently for some time been fitted into a barrel and used for pressing down salted fish. Nowadays it is housed in the Benedictine convent of St. Nicholas in Trogir. I had to see it. Finding that the convent museum was closed, it being out of the tourist season, I went to the evening Mass and afterwards asked one of the sisters if I could see the Kairos. She kindly opened the museum for me the following morning.